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Guest Comments.

Philip Isenhouer's trip report for Peru, 17-30 October 2006

Why Peru?

I had a time window of 10-12 days to take a vacation from 1 October-3 December. I wanted to go on an Amazon trip where I could see the most wildlife and experience the rainforest. At the same time I did not want to see any cities or historical sites nor sleep in a tent or a hammock. After much research and reading I chose the Manu National Park area of Peru.

InkaNatura Tours

When I emailed queries to the rain forest tour groups, InkaNatura Travel always got back to me by the next day. Others tour groups took at least a week and some never did get back to me.
InkaNatura Travel had a seven day tapir and macaw clay lick trip that started 19 October. I asked for two additional days and InkaNatura Travel arraigned it to me. Samantha Taylor and Carolina Lopez did the complete bookings of tapir and macaw clay lick plus 2 days, Cusco hotel room, transfers, and the Machu Picchu train trip. When I arrived and needed transfers InkaNutura Travel was there at the exact time. Jessica was our guide for the tapir and macaw clay lick tour and she was excellent (read further on).
It is my opinion there is not a better tour group in this part of the world. I highly recommend InkaNatura Travel to anyone going to Peru.

Daily Activities

17 October

At 1500 I left the Los Angeles Airport on an American Airlines flight bound for Peru.

18 October

I arrived at the Lima Airport, went through customs and then boarded a plane to Cusco. I arrived in Cusco at 0700 and was picked up by Maria and Claros of InkaNatura Travel. Here after Maria would be the one helping me with all my connections. I checked into the Los Apus, had some coca tea and took a 2 hour nap. I got up and went to the Cusco’s Plaza de Armes at a slow pace and looked around and then returned to Los Apus for lunch.
Maria picked me up at 1:15 for the ½ day city tour. The tour group had about 30 tourists and we traveled around to the different sites in a large bus. Our guide was a local man who gave us enough information as not to overwhelm us and was short to the point so as not to bore us. We toured three cathedrals, Qoricancha, Sacsahuman, Qenqo, Pukapukara and Tambomachay. I got dropped off at the Plaza de Armes at 1930 and walked back to Los Apus and had some soup for supper.
An InkaNatura Travel agent came by Los Apus at 2000 and took me a couple blocks away to meet Jessica the InkaNatura Travel guide and my two travel companions, Sigi and Gitti. Jessica outlined our up coming trip and what to expect. I then left and went to Los Apus and to bed.

19 October

Jessica picked me up at 0610 and away we went. Sigi, Gitti, Jessica, our driver and I all rode in a mini-bus with had 3 rows of seat and our belonging and lunch in the back. We went up into the Andes and crossed over two mountain passes close to 4,000M. Here the farmers were still working the fields with oxen and wooden plows, herding sheep, goats and cows. We went through several local villages and stopped at the Nina Marca Burial Towers and then started the desent into the cloud forest.
At 1600 we arrived at the Cock of the Rock Lodge. We looked for birds around the Lodge and ate supper at 1900, talked till 2100 and then went to bed. A Danish/German bird group, who we would meet up with again, was also at the lodge with us.

20 October

At 0530 we walked the short distance from the Lodge to the cock of the rock bird lick to watch the cock of the rocks perform. We then birded around the area and the lodge. We found our first snake, a coral snake going into the bush. We then drove and birded till 1130 to meet our dugout canoe. The morning drive was on very steep terrain with up to a 300 meter drop off the side of the road. The road was a rough narrow and stone/gravel road. During these two days of driving we passed maybe 10 vehicles with waterfalls everywhere.
Prior to boarding our dugout canoe we toured a coca plantation. We then boarded our dugout canoe and went down the Rio Alto Madre de Dios to the Boca Manu Lodge. We dropped off our belonging at our cabins and then looked for birds and animals along the Boca Mau Airstrip. A sudden downpour got us wet right before supper. We ate supper at the Lodge at 1900 and talked at the table until bedtime at 2100.

21 October

After breakfast we went to the Boca Manu Airport to pick up Rob and Angela. There was a large group of girls (40) and a small group of honeymooners waiting to go back to Cusco at the airport. One of the honeymooners talked non stop and I finally figured out she looked liked Olive Oil. The rest of our group agreed. After picking up Rob, Angela and Juan Carlos from InkaNatura Cusco we boarded our dugout canoe and headed up the Rio Manu.
We stopped at the Manu National Park Headquarters to register. We then got back on the river and it rained 75 mm for the next three hours. The rain stopped and we looked for birds and animals the rest of the way in, arriving at Manu Tented Camp at 1700. We ate supper at 1900 and then went on a night hike to see insects and frogs. We return and went to bed at 2100.

22 October

We had breakfast at 0530 and left camp by boat for Cocha Salvodor to look for giant otters. We walked to the lake and then padded around the lake in a catamaran and saw lots of birds and turtles but no giant otters. We return to camp for lunch and a nap and then we all walked into the forest for a long walk. We returned to camp and ate supper at 1900 and talked until bed time at 2100.

23 October

We had breakfast at 0530 and left camp by dugout canoe to Cocha Otorongo to look for giant otters. After docking our dugout canoe we walked to the lake at various view points and found a family of nine giant otters at the last viewpoint. During our walk we came upon an ornate hawk eagle hunting ground birds, this was quite a sight. We return to our dugout canoe and headed back down the Rio Manu to Manu Wildlife Center. We got settled in at camp and went for a walk on several of the Manu Wildlife Center trails. We saw lots of monkey species close up and our first sightings of macaws. We returned to camp and ate supper at 1900 and talked until bed time at 2100.

24 October

We left camp at 0515 for the macaw clay lick via dugout canoe. We arrived at the clay lick blind, settled in and had breakfast. Hundreds of parakeets and parrots started to arrive in the trees on the opposite riverbank. There was a hawk down on the riverbank that kept these smaller birds away. Later in the morning more and more scarlet macaws started to arrive. The macaws then went down in force to eat clay. We counted over 70 scarlet macaws at this clay lick. We then left at 1100 but our dugout canoe was stuck in the mud and after much effort from everyone we were off. We returned back to the Center in time for lunch and a nap. During this time I found another coral snake that I pointed out to anyone who wanted a look. At 1600 we left with our packed supper for the tapir lick. We climbed a 30M canopy tower and then it started to rain. We returned to the Center and it stopped raining. We then decided to go back to tapir lick which is a 4 KM walk. As we were heading back we ran into a group who were just returning after seeing a tapir at the lick. We arrived at the lick and a giant tapir was there which we watched until it left. We then ate our supper, the only bad meal of the entire trip. On our return to the Center we looked at insects and frogs. We arrived back at 2130 and I went to bed.

25 October

We had breakfast at 0515 and then saw Rob, Angela, Sigi, Gitti and Juan Carlos off. They were to return via dugout canoe to Boca Manu for their flight to Cusco.
Jessica and I then looked for animals and birds on the trails around the center. At lunch we had a long talk with the Danish/German birding group. In their first two weeks in Peru they had seen 420 species of birds. I told them we had seen at least 100 species that included harpy eagle, black and chestnut eagle, ornate hawk eagle hunting and another bird Jessica told me to tell them. This was a major set back to them for these were the birds they wanted to see the most. After that they chanted 420 birds but no harpy when we ran into each other.
After lunch I took a nap and met Jessica at 1500 for a trip to Cocha Camungo. We took the dugout canoe to get there and then walked to the lake. We used a catamaran and paddled it around the lake. There were lots of birds and turtles and at the far end of the lake, a family of four giant otters. The otters barked and looked at us from many different angles. They finally left and we returned back to the boat dock. From here we climbed to the top of the 40M canopy tower. It was sunset and we could see various monkey groups bedding down in the tree tops for the night.
We return to the Center and had supper at 1900. Jessica and I were joined with two people from another InkaNatura Travel group that had just arrived that afternoon. The rest of their group went to the tapir lick for the evening. Al was tired and didn’t want to do the walk and Veronica was reading a good book and would not be going on any excursions until she finished her book. After supper Jessica and I had a cold beer and then I went to bed at 2100.

26 October

We left at 0515 for another day at the macaw clay lick. The water level was down over one meter from two days ago so we went to a smaller blind. Here the dugout canoe was docked and we walked across an island to get to the blind. On the way Jessica and I spotted an Amazon pigmy owl right on the trail. When we arrived at the blind the Danish/German birding group already was set up with their big scopes. I asked them if they had seen the Amazon pigmy owl and they didn’t which really depressed them for this was another bird they wanted to see. Now they went around chanting 420 birds but no harpy or pigmy owl.
Hundreds of parakeets and parrots started to arrive in the trees on the opposite riverbank. There were more of these small birds then there was two days ago but again they did not come down. Later in the morning more and more scarlet macaws started to arrive and go to the clay lick. They were then joined by many cobalt parrots. There were less macaws today then two days ago and everything was over by 0900. Our dugout canoe group left and went back to the Center. We were at lunch when the Danish/German birding group came in 30 minutes late. They spend 2 hours in the bush looking for the Amazon pigmy owl until they found it. They were very happy but Jessica and I considered it a lot of work.
I took a nap after lunch and did some looking about and then met Jessica at 1600 and we took to the Center trails looking for monkeys and birds until 1730. From 1730 to 1830 I sat on the boat dock talking to the Danish/German birding group. We had supper at 1900 and I visited with people and went to bed at 2100. At 2130 it started to rain and it poured until 0400.

27 October

I got up at the regular time of 0500 and met Jessica for some monkey hunting but there was still light rain so we went back for breakfast. We then took the dugout canoe back to Boca Manu and walked to the airport. Due to all the nights rain the plane from Cusco would not be here until 1200. I was walking around killing time and a Vancouver woman started talking to me. She told me all about their trip and asked me what I had done. Before I could answer she started telling me about her passed vacations and future vacation. I went to the bathroom with her still talking to me. The single prop plane landed at 1210 and we were placed in the plane based on our weight. Prior to loading, people and their possessions are weighed. We left and made a stop at Huaypetuie, a gold mining area. After flying over the Amazon basin with nothing but green trees and brown rivers it was some site to come upon total destruction. We dropped off some people and picked up some people and then went unto Cusco arriving at 1400. Maria and Carlos picked up Jessica and me and dropped me off at Los Apus. I took a nap and waked around the Plaza de Armes area, ate supper at Los Apus and went to bed at 2100.

28 October

I had breakfast at the hotel and Maria picked me up at 0530 and took me to the train station. At 0600 the villa dome train left for the 3 ¾ train ride to Machu Picchu. We had light refreshment on the train and arrived at Aguas Calientes at 0945 and then transferred to the busses that took us to Machu Picchu. Vilita Zumiga was waiting for our little group of myself and two other American couples. Vilita gave us a complete tour from 1030 to 1400 of Machu Picchu. The other two couples were staying at hotels in Aguas Calientes but I had to leave to catch the villa dome train back to Cusco. Vilita and I had lunch at Totos and then I did a little shopping and got on the villa dome train which left at 1630. I got off the villa dome train at Voroy and Maria picked me up and returned me to Los Apus. For reference the ideal villa dome seats are 25 & 26, 53 & 54, 45 &46 and 41 & 42.
I ate supper at Los Apus and then went to Plaza de Armas. The plaza was packed full of people and there was lots of action for it was a Saturday night. Fireworks were being set up and a little bit before 2100 it started to rain. I then went back to Los Apus and went to bed.

29 October

I pack all my belonging, had breakfast at Los Apus, walked around Plaza de Armas, went to several shopping areas, took a nap in Los Apus and then Maria picked me up at 1400 for the trip to the airport. I left Cusco soon after to Lima and then onto Los Angeles.

30 October

I arrived at the Los Angeles Airport at 1050 and was back to work by 1300.

Animals, Birds, Snakes and Insects

I saw 167 bird species of which 144 were life birds. Yes I did not see the large numbers the bird groups saw but I was on vacation not work. Up close I saw Manu’s 11 species of monkey, both white and black caimans, tapirs, capybaras, different squirrels, different possums, coties, 2 coral snakes, frogs and insects of all sizes and shapes. I was very happy with what I saw, a lot of it up close.

Tour Group

There was myself, a 58 year old American, Sigi and Gitti a same age German couple and Rob and Angelo, an early thirty couple from Manchester, England. All of us and Jessica got along great with a lot of camaraderie.

Lodging

Los Apus, Cusco is located a 5 minute walk from the Plaza de Armes. It is located behind the cathedral and was far enough away from the plaza to be quiet. The staff was friendly, and open for discussions. I recommend rooms 304, 305 and 306.

The Cock of the Rock Lodge consists of 10 cabins, each with their own bathrooms and a central dining hall. The dining hall has a porch which overlooks a small garden in the forest that had flowering plants that were thick with humming birds and a fruit feeder that had constant bird activities. There were coties and monkeys that came by to feed. There was no electricity so candles were used. Each cabin was on stilts, had a wood frame and a thatch roof with screens for walls. Each bed had mosquito netting.

The Boca Mau Lodge consists of 6 cabins, a central dining hall and a central shower and restroom building. The lodge was located on the river and about 100 meters from the Boca Mau Airport. There was no electricity so candles were used. Each cabin was on stilts, had a wood frame and a thatch roof with screens for walls. Each bed had mosquito netting.
At the landing strip, two men mowed the airport landing strip six days a week. When they got to one end it was time to start over.

The Manu Tented Camp consists of 6 cabins, a central dining hall and a central shower and restroom building. The shower water and wash basin water was pumped directly from the river. The tented camp was located on the river. There was no electricity so candles were used. Each cabin was on stilts, had a wood frame and a thatch roof with screens for walls. Each bed had mosquito netting.

The Manu Wildlife Center consists of 20 cabins, each with their own bathrooms, a central dining hall and a lounge building located on the river. The camp had a generator and had cold soda and beer for sale. From 1900-2100 you could charge your batteries. There was no electric outside of the so kitchen and lounge area so candles were used. Each cabin was on stilts, had a wood frame and a thatch roof with screens for walls. Each bed had mosquito netting. Every day around noon monkeys came through the camp and there always were blue and yellow macaws and scarlet macaws in camp. There were many trails nearby for bird and wildlife viewing.

Food and Drink

We had excellent food throughout the trip.

Health

I only brushed my teeth with bottle water and followed all the recommended practices. No one in our group had any health issues.

Suggestions to InkaNatura Travel

Do not change a thing. Leave this great interary as is.

Highlights

There was nothing better then just being in the forest going down the river in a dugout canoe looking for birds and animals. Being there was the highlight.

Evaluation

InkaNatura Travel puts together a great package and I am happy to recommend them and a Manu trip to anyone.

Contact

Feel free to contact me if you have any queries about InkaNatura Travel or Manu.

Philip Isenhouer, 5415 Walnut Lane, Yorba Linda, California 92886, United States.
pisenhouer@yahoo.com